My trip along the Eagles’ Nests began in Częstochowa, where the famous red trail leading all the way to Cracow begins (you can also choose to begin your journey in Cracow and end it in Częstochowa). The entire route is about 160 kilometers long, but I decided to go my own way and ended my trek in Ojców.
The route I mapped out was not a faithful reproduction of the Red Eagles’ Nests Trail. In order to make the trek more attractive, I added some extremely picturesque and very interesting places, such as Bukowie Mountain. I often walked my own paths, although from time to time I crossed the trail and enjoyed its charms for a few kilometers.
There were reasons for my decision to change the trip route. Walking around large, crowded cities does not give me much satisfaction, so ending the route in the atmospheric Ojców seemed like a much better solution.
The trip took place at the beginning of March, i.e. outside the so-called season. It’s a great time — no tourists means peace and quiet and the opportunity to enjoy nature in solitude. I had been preparing for the trip for a long time, although without a specific date. I was waiting for the right weather window. When the forecast showed a few days of sunshine, I made a spontaneous decision, packed my backpack, and set off.
Setting off from Warsaw to Częstochowa
From Warsaw, I traveled to a town a few kilometers from Ojców to leave my car at a friendly agritourism farm for the duration of my trip. From there, I took a bus to the train station in Cracow, where I boarded a train to Częstochowa. At noon, in the Old Market Square, I was able to officially begin my journey, covering the first 17 kilometers of the trail.
It was my first trip of this kind, and I had no idea what to expect. The awareness that I was heading into the unknown evoked a lot of positive emotions in me. I was very excited at the thought of spending several nights in nature.
On the outskirts of Częstochowa, approaching the edge of the forest, I passed factories, company headquarters, offices, and plants. Even though it was Saturday, around 1:00 p.m., there was a lot of traffic. People were finishing work and heading back to the city. Dozens of people were marching in the same direction on both sides of the street, and I was the only one walking in the opposite direction, with a huge backpack weighing about 25 kilograms. My camera equipment, camera attached to my backpack, and tripod made me look like I was getting ready for an expedition to the Himalayas. No wonder everyone looked at me as if I were from another world.
Well, I didn’t fit in at all, and maybe I did look like an alien, but I could sense curiosity and surprise in their eyes – where was I going and why? That’s when I realized how lucky I was. I could do something crazy, have an adventure, and go in the direction I chose. While this crowd of people returned to their daily duties – shopping, cooking dinner, and the prose of life – I could do anything and didn’t have to do anything.
Towarne Mountains with a view of the castle in Olsztyn – first stop, first night
Due to strong winds and fairly low temperatures, which dropped to -8 degrees at night, I pitched my tent below the summit, on a small patch of grass between rocks and bushes, so that the morning sun could warm me up.
Choosing a place to stay is a strategic decision on this type of trip, one that can help or harm. That’s why, when choosing a place to stay, I always took into account the strength and direction of wind, setting up my tent in such a way that the sun could warm and dry me at dawn. The altitude of the campsite is also important, which is why I tried to pitch my tent as high as possible. Apart from the reward of beautiful views, it was mainly about feeling safe in the context of wild animals, such as wild boars.
Second day and second night – Bukowie Mountain
For the next day, I planned to cover a distance of 21 kilometers. The route led through the ruins of Ostrężnik Castle to Bukowie Mountain. The picturesque road followed almost entirely Eagles’ Nests, and only at the end I have to deviate from it in order to reach my destination.
Bukowie Mountain is a little-known place. Here, you can count on peace and quiet, and you won’t find any traces of mass tourism. On the northern slope of this hill, there is a very nice cave, as well as a Way of the Cross, the stations of which lead to the very top.
The day was coming to an end, so it was time to find a place to sleep. I pitched my tent at the foot of this hill, where I spent another cold night. In the morning, I was awakened by a gusty wind, and the whole landscape was covered with snow. It rained until 9:00 a.m., which made my hike even more challenging.
Third day, third night, and Zborów Mountain
On that day, I had to cover 18 kilometers towards Zborów Mountain. There is also the Deep Cave, which can only be visited during the season. The route also led through the castles in Mirów and Bobolice, very recognizable places on the map of the Cracow-Częstochowa Upland.
I was struck by the so-called “third day crisis.” I was severely bothered by a strained muscle, which was in poor condition, and I limped and gritted my teeth to keep going. The situation certainly wasn’t made any easier by the very strong wind and snowstorms that recurred every few hours, which had not been forecast at all.
I was really depressed. Just three kilometers before reaching my destination, I seriously considered giving up. I dreamed of stopping at some agritourism farm, drying off, and resting in warmth place. I was soaked, cold, and exhausted. However, in the midst of this internal struggle, I realized that this was not why I had set out on this trip. The goal was to walk the entire route, sleeping only in the field.
Therefore, I pulled myself together and continued on. When I reached my planned overnight destination, the wind was still gusty, but the sky had cleared up and the next day promised to be very sunny. However, I needed shelter from the wind and a place to dry my clothes, so I decided to spend the night in a cave. It turned out to be a great decision and an unforgettable experience.
Fourth day, fourth night – Okiennik Wielki (The Great Window)
The morning in the cave greeted me with an extremely picturesque sunrise and beautiful moon, which was visible through the opening of cave. I woke up feeling much better and in a much better mood.
On that day, the route led towards the castle in Ogrodzieniec. The distance was 17 kilometers, and I once again strayed from the red trail to pass through the Great Window, a very interesting group of limestone rocks. On the way, I also passed the ruins of Bąkowiec Castle. I ended the day camping on the slope of Birów Hill, which offered an impressive view of Ogrodzieniec Castle.
Fifth day, fifth night – Błędowska Desert
The next day, my destination was the Błędowska Desert. It was already the fifth day of my journey, and I felt that by then I had managed to adapt to the constant cold, dampness, and pain throughout my body, even to the strained muscle. The discomfort was noticeable, but not enough to make me give up. So I continued on my way.
That day, I had 22 kilometers to cover. It was a difficult and exhausting hike, but when I reached the desert, fate rewarded me with a spectacular sunset. I lit a fire and spent an extremely pleasant evening in unique circumstances.
If you ever plan to visit this region, it is worth remembering that humidity is very high in the desert at night and in the morning. For this reason, if you do not want everything to get wet, it is best to pitch your tent in the trees on the edge of forest and desert, rather than in the open desert, even though it may be tempting. Why am I mentioning this? Because I made this mistake and the morning turned out to be quite difficult. This rule also applies to camping in meadows and clearings. It is always better to choose a forest or its outskirts. This guarantees both a beautiful view and significantly less humidity.
Sixth day, sixth night – Our Valley Campground
The penultimate day of my hike took me almost to Ojców itself. The distance was as much as 35 kilometers, too much to cover in one go. Thus, I decided to split the route. My planned route for the day was 27 kilometers long and led through Rabsztyn Castle and Kocjan’s Cottage. At the end of this day, I reached Our Valley Campground, located in Sułoszowa, right on the border of Ojców National Park.
Considering the number of days I had already walked and my growing fatigue, it was one of the most exhausting routes. As for accommodation, I had no specific plan for that day. Initially, I assumed that I would set up camp right at the entrance to Ojców National Park. However, when I reached the campsite in the evening (my trek lasted from dawn to dusk), I decided to call the owner. I explained to him that I was walking from Częstochowa to Ojców and really needed a place to rest. Without hesitation, he agreed to let me pitch my tent there and spend the night. It was an extremely kind and nice gesture. I slept very well that night.
Finish line, seventh day – Ojców National Park
On the last day, I only had 8 kilometers left to Ojców and about 6 kilometers to reach my car, for a total of 14 kilometers. This section turned out to be the most beautiful part of the entire trip. The route leads through the heart of Ojców National Park.
I purposely planned to arrive here on Friday because, even though it was still the end of winter, crowds of walkers flock here from the Cracow area on weekends. Thanks to this, I was lucky enough to walk the last stage in peace and quiet, enjoying the picturesque route, which I had almost entirely to myself. It was a wonderful finale to the whole adventure.
Was the route a good idea?
It was undoubtedly a wonderful adventure. Rich in historical experiences, monuments, beautiful landscapes, and a magical atmosphere. There was no shortage of “food” for the soul, magnificent sunrises and sunsets, majestic limestone rocks, and unforgettable views. The area is definitely one of my favorite places in Poland and is worth visiting at any time of the year. Due to the blaze of colors, picturesque autumn is a particular pleasure. However, it should be noted that summer and autumn are the most popular seasons for tourists. Therefore, if you want to have the route “all to yourself” and cover the kilometers in a more intimate atmosphere, the best choice would be the turn of winter and spring.
As for the trekking, it was made much easier by the fact that the trail regularly crosses cities and towns. This makes it easy to eat something or replenish supplies, especially water. There are few natural reservoirs along the route. I dealt with this by buying a large bottle of water every day at the last possible store before reaching my destination. I would drink as much as possible “in reserve” and then continue with only a small half-liter bottle. This way, I was sure that I would not run out of water and at the same time I did not carry unnecessary weight.
However, there were also downsides…
Some attractions, such as Zborów Mountain and Towarne Mountains, are located right next to roads. This means that you can hear the noise of cars, which effectively spoils the atmosphere and makes it difficult to fully immerse in nature. Unfortunately, many sections of the route run along busy roads, and trucks and exhaust fumes definitely do not make trekking any more pleasant.
Another issue is litter. It is a terrible sight and greatly detracts from the overall experience of this route. The roadsides in particular look terrible, which is not noticeable from a car, but as a hiker, you can see every plastic bag or can. And although there is practically no problem with cleanliness in large cities, there is still a lot to be done in smaller towns and open areas. However, this is not only a matter for local authorities or administrators, but above all for people who have not yet realized that public space is our shared responsibility.
It was worth it!
To sum up… I managed to walk from Częstochowa to Ojców and complete my entire plan. I also managed to record the planned video – feel free to watch it on my YouTube channel. This experience will remain in my memory for a long time, and I will remember it very fondly.
I definitely recommend a walking or cycling trip along the Eagles’ Nests, because it is one of the most beautiful, magical, and diverse places in Poland. The trail allows you to combine closeness to nature with all its advantages, rich landscapes, and a bit of history with a trekking challenge that gives real satisfaction!
